8 Best Weed Killer For Lawns + How & When To Use

Unless you’ve tried them all yourself, it’s hard to know which is the best weed killer for lawns. Doing a search produces so many results that beginning to sort through them all is often intimidating. 

I had the same dilemma before I decided to test a few herbicides out for myself. After research and reading case studies, testimonials, and customer comments, I settled on 15 products. After a four-week run, I have settled on eight products that I believe to be the best weed killer for lawns and are worthy of your attention. 

If you’re in a hurry, here are my top three recommendations:

  1. Best All-Round Purchase: RoundUp Lawn 
  2. Best Multi-purpose Use:  Southern Ag Amine 2,4-D WEED KILLER
  3. Best Value for Your Buck:  Scotts Turf Builder Triple Action Weed Killer

In all, I recommend reading the entire review of the buyer’s guide for a better overview of how to select the best weed killer for your lawn. Let’s dive in.

Selecting A Weed Killer For Your Lawn

Selecting the right weed killer is complicated. It goes beyond comparing prices. You have to think about your specific lawn type, types of weeds, and the weed structure, not to mention how and when to apply it. So let’s start there and unravel the different types of weed killers and how to get the best results from each of them…

Contact Vs Systemic

Weed killers generally work in one of two ways, destroying weeds systematically or on contact. The systemic killers take time to work, as they infiltrate the entire plant. Contact killers, as their name suggests, kill on contact. Let’s take a closer look at the differences between the two and the benefits and drawbacks of each.

Contact Herbicides  

Contact herbicides damage only the parts of the plant they contact. I found that they rarely killed the root system, and as a result of this, the weeds will regrow. To get the best results with a contact herbicide you need to thoroughly cover the plant, stems, and leaves. This gives the solution an opportunity to soak right through to the plant’s root system and provides more chance of the roots being destroyed.

Contact weed killers are suitable for small annual weeds or basically weeds that don’t have a long deep taproot. However, you’re likely going to have to repeat the application the following year. The good news about herbicides in this category is they have a quick turn-around time. This means if you get good coverage, you’ll see results in about one to three days. 

Systemic Herbicides

Systemic herbicides are absorbed by the weed through stems, leaves, and roots. It is slowly transported throughout the weed’s cell structure causing irreparable damage, killing it from the roots up. They are ideal for destroying perennial weeds thanks to the way their active ingredients spread, making it easy to kill tubers, rhizomes, and root systems.

Unlike their contact counterparts, systemic herbicides go slow and steady to win their race. 

There are a couple of things to bear in mind when using systemic herbicides. Most importantly, they will kill everything they come into contact with. That includes any plants, trees, herbs, and lawn you might want to preserve so only use it where you need to, and be sure to cover up anything you want to keep while you’re administering this stuff. You also need to be mindful about using systemic herbicides in clay soil. The clay particles deactivate commonly found active ingredients such as glyphosate that are often found in this type of herbicide.

Residual Weed Killers

There is another type of weed killer that is not so common in domestic settings and that’s residual weed killer. This product sits in the soil and has the long-term effect of preventing weeds from growing. In fact, it will prevent any vegetative growth from any plant, so they should be used with extreme caution and in my opinion, not at all suitable for home use.

Pre-Emergent Vs Post Emergent

Weed killers are classified into two primary groups: pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicides. Knowing the difference and how to use them helps get the best results. So, here’s a deep dive into what you need to look out for.

Pre-Emergent Herbicides

Pre-emergent simply means before the seedlings emerge from their seed pod. Pre-emergent herbicides act by creating a protective seal around plant seeds, preventing them from germinating. Basically, they suffocate and eventually kill the seeds and they are only effective on plants that sprout from new seeds annually, such as goosegrass and crabgrass.  They do not destroy perennial plants (think established quack grass) due to their deep root systems.

I apply pre-emergent herbicides from fall through to early spring, just as the weather warms and plants begin to sprout because they yield better results at temperatures below 60°F. Whether I use a granular form or a liquid that can be sprayed on totally depends on the weather forecast, size of the are being treated, and situation. The granules rely on water for activation, so when you are covering a large area, you’ll need to wait for a light spring rainfall or if you have the capacity, use a sprinkler. 

Post-Emergent Herbicides

Post-emergent weed killers are formulated to target actively growing plants. Their active ingredients travel throughout the plant to kill the root system and eventually the entire plant. These are perfect to use once spring is in full swing when plants have begun growing, and it’s too late to use pre-emergent counterparts. 

The Post-emergent variety of weed killers come only in liquid or granular form. When using the liquid form, you will need to spray the product directly on the weeds. I always say it’s best to spray after the base of the weed is torn or cut because then, the plant structure is open and this allows the active ingredients within the herbicide to penetrate deep within the weed system.

When using the granular form, spread the herbicide on the lawn and activate it with a lawn sprinkler watering system or, if your timing is spot on, with a light rain shower. You will need to repeat this weed killer application throughout the growing season to keep perennial weeds at bay.

Whilst it’s an extra chore when there are always so many other clearing jobs to do in the fall, it is well worth applying a thorough final application in late fall to help prevent weeds from spreading seeds and growing once spring rolls around.

Organic Vs Synthetic Weed Control

The term “organic” is an unofficial, lightly regulated word that references something natural. It involves using ingredients present in nature to make an herbicide with similar effects as its man-made chemical or ‘synthetic’ counterparts. 

Generally, organic herbicides are safer than synthetic weed control products. However, as Ohio State University reports, there are highly toxic organic lawn weed control products on the market. With that in mind, always exercise caution when selecting, using, and storing any weed control products, and read the label to familiarise yourself with all of the associated hazards that come with using these types of products.

Organic Herbicides

Organic herbicides range from homemade concoctions to pre-mixed, store-bought solutions. Homemade solutions are generally inexpensive, depending on whether you have the ingredients to hand or if you need to buy in. Store-bought solutions are often pricier than their synthetic counterparts since they contain natural ingredients that are not mass-produced. 


Organic varieties are generally safer to use in terms of causing harm to people and pets if spillages occur. This is because the ingredients they contain are mostly natural. I’d strongly advise against ingesting any type of lawn weed killer however and always seek medical advice if either spillages or ingestion occurs.


Unfortunately, organic herbicides can sometimes have limited effectiveness and may provide you with a false sense of security. Whilst they will have less of a detrimental impact on the environment, you may need to repeat applications to see the benefit. They’re slower to get to work, and they can be more expensive than synthetic products if you buy them ready-to-go.

Organic makes sense if you’re dealing with a stubborn broadleaf outbreak or you want a cumulative year-on-year kind of effect. For instance, laying corn gluten foods may prevent up to 40% of crabgrass from germinating during the first treatment. Ongoing treatment increases the effectiveness by up to 80% if used year on year. Organics also make sense if you reside in an area where synthetic herbicides are banned.

Synthetic Herbicides

Synthetic herbicides make up the majority of products on store shelves. These herbicides are chemical mixtures that kill a variety of weeds. Most synthetic herbicides are selective. This means you can apply them on your lawn to kill unwanted plants without harming your grass. 


The man-made chemicals in synthetic herbicides are designed to be more effective, particularly in quickly killing multiple weed types. Since these man-made are usually mass-produced, prices can remain relatively inexpensive. If you lead a busy life and want immediate results, then synthetics may be the best option. They typically have 80% crabgrass control effectiveness on the first try. The effectiveness shot to 95%+ with proper nutrition and a thick lawn.


Still, there are downsides, not the least of which is the potential risk posed to humans and pets and also the environmental impact that using these products leaves on the world around us. They will even harm some plants and wildlife if not used properly. Despite the risks, the market is still awash with synthetic herbicide options making it down to homeowners, gardeners, and landscapers’ personal preference to select the right product for the job at hand.

Weed Types

You’re probably here because you aspire to have a perfectly manicured, weed-free lawn and are sick of the sight of weeds popping up here, there, and everywhere despite your best efforts to mow, pick, and dig up to keep them at bay. Some appear periodically while other weeds seem to come and go as they please, shedding seeds as they go.

If any of this sounds familiar then you need to know that identifying the type of weed you want to eradicate from your lawn is crucial. Generally, weeds are classified by their plant structure as well as germination periods, and survival times. Identifying a weed based on its plant structure is one of the quickest and easiest methods used to decide what product you need to eradicate the weeds in your garden. Here’s a rundown of the most common weeds found in lawns and how to identify them:

Broadleaf weeds

These are some of the easiest weeds to spot in lawns because they look nothing like grass. They all have flat leaves with veins. They grow from a stem and many have flowers that usually attract pollinators.  They can grow annually, biennially, or perennially, so staying on top of them is no easy task. Their growth rate is less vigorous in the winter however, they can leave seeds in the lawn ready for sprouting new weeds as the weather gets warmer.

Some of the most common varieties of broadleaf weed include dandelion, chickweed, wild carrot, and clover.

Grassy Weeds

Grassy weeds tend to be perennial and appear as clumps of grass in your lawn that are a different shade of green or have a different texture to your lawn. Some are more prevalent in cooler weather while others grow more prolifically in the winter.

They easily become established in lawns due to their deep root structures. They can be spot treated with weed herbicide or dug up but successful removal will only be achieved if the entire root structure is removed. Any roots that remain will just begin growing fresh shoots and the problem will reappear.

The most common varieties of grassy weeds are johnsongrass, goosegrass, and crabgrass.


Sedge weed often gets mistaken for grasses or rushes because of its attractive, green strap-like leaves and its love for damp conditions. They grow in patches, have course blades and an abundance of seed heads. Make no mistake, sedge is a troublesome and invasive weed that can quickly take hold of your lawn. The most common types of nutsedge weeds are nutgrass and yellow nutgrass.

Classification based on life cycle yields: 

Identifying the types of weeds on your lawn will help you to select the best herbicide for the job at hand. Weed classification based on when it grows during the year will then help you to understand the complexity of the weed’s root system and ultimately, how best to destroy them. 

Herbicide selectivity weakens the weed to help remove the infestation from your grass. Therefore, with the weed type, use active ingredients best suited to eradicate unwanted plants on your lawn.

Annual weeds 

Annual weeds, which include chickweed and crabgrass, reproduce from seeds and have a life cycle of a year. 

Biennial weeds 

Biennial weeds, such as wild carrots, reproduce from seeds and have a life cycle of about two years. 

Perennial weeds

Perennial weeds (think along the lines of dandelions, johnsongrass, and yellow nutsedge) reproduce through specialized underground structures like tubers and rhizomes over a number of years. 

Herbicides composition 

The higher the percentage of active ingredients, the stronger the herbicide. 

The ingredients section on the label lists all herbicides (active ingredients) and inert (inactive ingredients) contained in the weed killer. The label also indicates the percentage of herbicides and inerts in relation to the total volume. 

The percentage of active ingredients dictates the amount of product to be applied on the lawn. They also dictate the effectiveness of a given product on its target weed.

Lawn size

Besides the types of weed, think about the size of your lawn. Normally, herbicides are sold in ready-to-use liquid, concentrate, or dry form. The formulation affects their land coverage and how quickly they get into action.

Concentrate herbicides are suitable for large lawns, but they’re expensive…then again you dilute them down…so don’t be fooled by the bottle or packet size, be sure to check out the area coverage for price comparison.

Best Weed Killer For Lawns Reviews

Here are my top picks of the best weed killer for lawns. I’ve taken the time to review and test each one extensively so that I can bring to you an informed choice so that you can get your green space looking its absolute best.

Knowing weeds in lawns as I do I will continue to have the opportunity to re-test and update this list with the latest revisions and any new-to-market products. In the meantime, here’s my rundown of the best herbicides on the market right now.

1. Roundup For Lawns Weed Killer Spray

Roundup For Lawns Weed Killer Spray


  • Active ingredients:  Glyphosate, Diquat
  • Target weeds: Broadleaf and Grasses     
  • Application:  Magic Wand Spray 
  • Formulation: Ready to use
  • Action time: 12 hours  
  • Rainproof: in 30 minutes 
  • Coverage area: All areas
  • Use Lawn, Borders, Walkways

RoundUp is a name synonymous with herbicides, so, not surprisingly, I had to test out their selective herbicide weed killer out for myself. Equipped with safety gear I was able to give this a try both as a concentrated spot control formula for broadleaf weeds on my driveway by using the wand spray applicator, and also diluting the concentrate into a backpack weed sprayer for wider coverage of grassy weeds and broadleaf weeds in my lawn.

Its two primary active ingredients – Glyphosate and Diquat work together through absorption into the stem and leaves and also preventing formula from spreading through the soil to non-targeted plants. Glyphosate interacts with a unique enzyme found in plants and Diquat gets absorbed by the soil to attack weeds at the root stage. 

You can use RoundUp when weeds are actively growing, and you haven’t mowed or slashed before spraying. The weather needs to be between 60 and 85°F, and you don’t expect your lawn to be disturbed for several days after application. Lastly, while the soil should be moist, the leaves of the weeds should be totally dry.

This herbicide is ideal for clearing large lawns quickly and its performance was phenomenal. It killed the majority of the weeds within 17 hours and the dead weeds were easy to uproot a day after the application. 

On the downside, the results are not long-lasting, and I did begin to spot new weed sprouting up just a couple of weeks later. Also, some reviewers found that this RoundUp doesn’t do too well with out-of-control cactus, bamboo, and or as a moss killer. Hey-ho! you can’t have it all, I guess.

I got good results by using the recommended dosage of 6 fl. oz. of Roundup concentrate with a gallon of water. It will need rinsing off any plant that you want to keep if you accidentally spill some. You should wait at least three days before planting spices, vegetables, and cactus after you’ve applied this.

Overall, it did its job, which isn’t surprising for a powerful, selective product from a top brand like RoundUp. Click here to view Roundup For Lawns Weed Killer Spray here.

In terms of safety, you’ll be able to continue your gardening activities 24 hours after the application, and this RoundUp product has been proven effective for livestock and humans.


  • Contains two powerful active ingredients that work together to target the eradication of weeds
  • Ready-to-use formula can be used as a spot control treatment or larger scale weed clearance
  • See results in as little as 12 hours


  • Not effective on all common varieties of invasive plant

2. Spectracide Weed Stop For Lawns

Spectracide Weed Stop For Lawns


  • Active ingredients:  Diquat dibromide, Fluazifop-p-butyl, Dicamba, Dimethylamine salt
  • Target weeds: 470+ common weeds    
  • Application:  Uniform spraying 
  • Formulation: pre-mixed solution  
  • Action time: 5hours 
  • Rainproof: no
  •  Coverage area: 1-4 pints per acre  
  • Use: pastures, golf courses, parks, rangeland, lawns, cemeteries

Spectracide came pre-mixed with a spray attachment making it really easy to use with no mixing, decanting, and messy pouring required. Performance-wise, crabgrass and dandelions began to wither two days after the application, while other weed types followed suit seven days after the application.

I sprayed in the late morning with the outdoor temperature around 53°F, a value between the recommended 45°F – 90°F. I had also mowed my lawn two days before to help get better results.

I followed the directions to the letter and I found that this product required more than one application to effectively kill the crabgrass and dandelions in my lawn. But on the plus side, it didn’t harm any of my ‘keep me’ plants. Click here for Spectracide Weed Stop For Lawns

It is pricey for what you get, but worth it if you just have a small lawn and it is known to kill over 400 varieties of weeds in as little as five hours. Plus, if you follow the usage instructions and obtain no results, you’re guaranteed to get your money back. 


  • It controls pest, diseases, and weeds – all in one 
  • Good value for money if you have a small area to weed
  • Won’t harm your lawn 


  • Not ideal for day temperatures above 90°F. 

3. Southern Ag Amine 2,4-D WEED KILLER

Southern Ag Amine 2,4-D WEED KILLER


  • Active ingredients: D-Dichlorophe noxyacetic acid and Dimethylamine salt 
  • Target weeds: broadleaf weeds 
  • Application:  a coarse low-pressure spray, with fan type nozzle 
  • Formulation: granule 
  • Action time: hours 
  • Rainproof: no
  •  Coverage area: 1-4 pints per acre  
  • Use: pastures, golf courses, parks, rangeland, southern lawns

I used the Southern AG on a section of lawn with a variety of weeds, but mostly broadleaf. I used the ratio of 2oz. of concentrate, one gallon of water, and added dishwashing soap to serve as surfactant. Some broadleaf weeds (clovers included) began to wilt and rot on the second day. Other weeds (mostly woody plants) didn’t exhibit death signs until after eight days.  

I realized early on that this weed killer works best at daytime temperatures between 70°F and 80°F. When the temperature exceeds 90°F, there is a chance the herbicide will harm your grass. 

Its key active ingredients (D-Dichlorophe noxyacetic acid and Dimethylamine salt) are absorbed into the stems and leaves of a plant. The herbicide then moves throughout the plant to kill the root structure. 

Besides killing a wide range of broadleaf weeds, Southern AG Amine 24-D is a great value-for-money weed killer for lawns. You only need to use one to four pints of the product per acre. 

This herbicide is ideal for southern lawns because it helps control the overgrowth of weeds, grasses, and wildflowers present, especially during summer. It will also kill woody plants and any weeds on pastures, golf courses, and cemeteries. Check out Southern Ag Amine 2,4-D Weed Killer at Amazon.com

The results are visible within two weeks. When applying, cover the recommended amount of area without overlap. Also, prevent the herbicide from drifting to edible or other susceptible plants. 


  • Ideal for southern lawns 
  • Kills woody plants and broadleaf weeds indefinitely
  • Best value for your buck


  • Usage directions on the packaging are limited

4. Scotts Turf Builder Triple Action Weed Killer

Scotts Turf Builder Triple Action Weed Killer


  • Active ingredients: triple-action technology; pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicides 
  • Target weeds: tough lawn weeds
  • Application: Uniform spreading 
  • Formulation: granule 
  • Action time: days  
  • Rainproof: no
  •  Coverage area: up to 4000ft² 
  • Use: Northern lawns

Amongst the other weeds in my lawn, I needed a weed killer for dandelions and so I was eager to try this innovative solution. Once I got over the price shock, I calculated the quantity of granules I needed for my lawn. To apply, I pressed the “trigger” and spread the product. 

I applied the granules after a morning dew and a day before a light rainfall. The outdoor temperature was roughly 72°F, which was between the recommended 60°F-80°F temperature. I had mowed the specific lawn section three days prior and bagged it to prevent the spread of dandelion seeds. 

It’s a bit of a military operation but the results speak for themselves. The dandelions and all the weeds were gone after just three treatments. 

Generally, this product is formulated for northern lawns. It has triple-action technology to kill, prevent, and feed. It kills broadleaf weeds, prevents the growth of grass weeds for four months, and feeds to build green, healthy lawns. 

Scotts Turf Builder is easy to use. First, calculate the lawn size using the Scotts My Lawn app to determine the amount needed to adequately cover the lawn. Then pour the measured amount into the spreader, adjust the settings as per the label requirements, and apply. (Wait at least six to eight weeks between fertilizer applications. To find Scotts Turf builder at Amazon.com click here

Scotts don’t recommend you to use Turf Builder on newly seeded areas. Instead, wait until after the fourth mowing. Also, when spraying, keep kids and pets out of the lawn and ensure they do not access the treated area for a day or two.


  • Small pellets for easy application with a standard spreader 
  • Three triple-action technology 
  • Kills broadleaf weeds indefinitely 


  • The pellets are fluffy – get blown off by wind easily
  • High price tag
  • Doesn’t kill grassy weeds indefinitely  

5. Ortho Weed B Gone

Ortho Weed B Gone


  • Active ingredients: dimethylamine salt
  • Target weeds: over 250 tough lawn weeds
  • Application: Uniform spraying 
  • Formulation: concentrate; ready to use; and ready to spray forms 
  • Action time: hours 
  • Rainproof: in one hour
  •  Coverage area: 32 oz. covers up to 16000ft² 
  • Use: lawns

Ortho Weed B Gone is a selective herbicide product that is available to buy in different forms. You can buy it as a concentrate to use with the Ortho Dial N Spray or Tank Sprayer. Alternatively, buy it as a ready-to-use for spot treatments or a ready-to-spray formula that is ideal for broad application. It’s suitable for use on grassy weeds and also broadleaf weeds and can be used on your lawn and on pathways and driveways. Check out Ortho Weed B Gone here.

Having read some reviews about Ortho Weed B Gone giving inconsistent results, I decided to apply it on two separate sections of the lawn using the same procedures. It’s fair to say that I didn’t get the results immediately.

Initially, the grass remained green and weeds were flourishing. Two days in and weeds in one section had withered. By the third day, weeds in both sections had withered and began to rot. Bingo!

In the first seven days, some broadleaf weeds had died, grass weeds discolored, and some dandelions were bouncing back to life. I had to repeat the application two times to get better results. Still, some 20% of the weeds seemed unfazed.

Just be careful to avoid spreading this product near any edible plants. It’s best to keep them covered when you are spraying or use the spot treatment instead. If you do manage to get the product on your precious crops, be sure to hose it off with water immediately.

I’ve noticed on some forums that some gardeners report an earlier success when they combine the herbicide with other treatments, such as in-soil weed control and fertilization. Overall, the Ortho Weed B Gone is okay-especially if you’re patient enough to wait for its full effect. 


  • Trusted brand 
  • Ready-to-spray formula and built-in nozzle attachment makes it an easy to use product 
  • Rainproof in 1-hour


  • Require more application rounds to get better results 
  • Does not destroy all weeds
  • The nozzle allows over-spray onto useful plants 

6. Preen One LawnCare Weed & Feed

Preen One LawnCare Weed & Feed


  • Active ingredients: zero-phosphorus 24-0-6 formula
  • Target weeds: over 250 tough lawn weeds
  • Application: One Easy Application 
  • Formulation: granules 
  • Action time: weeks
  • Rainproof: no
  •  Coverage area: 9lb.cover 2500ft² 
  • Use: lawns

I used Preen One LawnCare on a lawn section with a wide variety of weeds, including dandelion, creeping Charlie, creeping buttercup, and clover. This is a granular formula that needs to be applied with a rotary spreader and the conditions need to be just so. Make sure your lawn is relatively wet and there is no rain forecast for the next few days.

When I used this selective weed herbicide I noticed that the weeds didn’t die immediately. It took three to four weeks to see measurable results. Nonetheless, it was highly efficient. 

First, the herbicide targets grass seeds, stopping them from growing. Next, it kills clover, dandelion, and 250 other broadleaf weeds indefinitely. Finally, it slowly releases nitrogen formulation to feed the useful grass for up to eight weeks. The zero phosphate formula is proven to be eco-friendly – protecting waterways from vegetative growths in case of a runoff. See more details for Preen One Lawncare here

There are limitations to the type of lawn you use this on. The manufacturer recommends that it is not used on carpet grass, dichondra, St Augustinegrass, or colonial bentgrass as it can result in irreparable lawn injury.


  • Good value for money (9lb. covers up to 2500ft² lawn.)
  • Easy to use (no clumps, no dust in the granules)
  • Weed control plus fertilizer 


  • Did not kill some stubborn weeds like Creeping Charlie as I hoped 

7. Fertilome Weed – Out Lawn Weed Killer RTS

Best Weed Killer For Lawns


  • Active ingredients: Dimethylamine salt of dicamba – 1.21; Dimethylamine salt of 2,4; Dimethylamine salt of propionic acid; and dichlorophenoxyacetic acid
  • Target weeds: over 200 broadleaf weeds
  • Application: measure accurate dosage and add water to a proper level. Spray uniformly.
  • Formulation: liquid concentrate
  • Action time: hours 
  • Rainproof: no
  •  Coverage area: 32 oz. covers up to 8000ft²
  • Use: Outdoor, lawns

Fertilome Weed-Out Lawn Weed Killer RTS was recommended by a good friend of mine who spent many years working as a landscape gardener. After doing a little bit of extra research, I discovered that the product promises to kill weeds fast so I had to add it to my list for trial.  

I did my calculations, added the required amount for my lawn section, and filled the sprayer to the right level. Typically, one gallon of RTS should cover up to 250ft². Use the ratio to add or reduce the amount per your lawn size. 

I did not see immediate results, but within two weeks, nearly all weeds on the section died. This included clover, dandelion, and the stubborn dollar weed. 

The herbicide can be used as a spot treatment or broad treatment. The spot treatment covers an area of up to 1000ft²/acre. However, it’s limited to residential turfgrass. Click here to view Fertilome Weed-Out Weed Killer now.

Regardless of the type of treatment, the maximum application rate remains at 4 fl. oz. per 1000ft² per application. Always skip at least one month between applications. 

For best results, spray the herbicide during spring when the weeds are actively growing. You can also apply during fall to kill germinating seeds. Follow all the precautionary measures and observe the restrictions for your state.


  • Good value for money (one 32 oz. bottle covers up to 8000ft²)
  • No measuring or mixing with the easy sprayer option 


  • Take weeks to see results 

8. Ortho WeedClear Weed Killer for Lawns

Ortho WeedClear Weed Killer For Lawns


  • Active ingredients: 3 patented herbicides 
  • Target weeds: over 250 common weeds
  • Application: Comfort Wand applicator.
  • Formulation: liquid concentrate
  • Action time: hours
  • Rainproof: within 1 hour
  •  Coverage area: on a 1000ft² basis
  • Use: residentiallawns

I diluted a one-half ounce of Ortho WeedClear concentrates to make a 24-ounce trigger-spray bottle. I used it for spot treatment on my lawn section comprising mostly dandelions and broadleaf weeds. 

Be sure to set the trigger to spray instead of a stream to preserve your product. 

The herbicide proved effective in knocking out broadleaf weeds, with two shots. I could spot some measurable results in 12 hours or so, but it took two to three weeks for the full effect. Click here for Ortho Weedclear from Amazon.com

When applying, follow all the usage instructions lest risk harming your lawn. Also, it’s best to apply when the weeds are young and actively growing. 


  • Rainproof within 1 hour upon dying 
  • Easy-to-use Comfort Wand applicator
  • Formulated especially for residential lawns 


  • Takes a long time to attain full effect 
  • Can be harmful to humans and pets when still wet 

How to Apply Weed Killer for Lawns

You must apply your weed killer correctly for best results. Thus, before using the herbicide, thoroughly read its label and take note of: 

  • Shelf life 
  • Ingredients 
  • Target weeds
  • Consumption rates
  • Time of action, and 
  • Recommended application method. 
  • Research the active ingredients.

Armed with the right information, ensure a precise dosing accuracy for an effective treatment. 

Before measuring and mixing the herbicide, check that the weed conditions meet the specifications on the label. For instance, are they small and actively growing? Are their root structures powerful and well-functioning? Are they among the target weeds listed on the label? 

Check the temperature of the soil and outdoor air. Generally, the best weed killers for lawns work best in temperatures between 60°F and 77°F. The subsoil housing the root structure should be at least 53°F or higher. 

If your lawn meets all the requirements, go ahead and apply the correct dosage while following the application method recommended by the manufacturer. 

Wear protective gear when applying herbicides. That includes protective clothes, respirators, rubber gloves, and goggles. Finally, clean the sprayer or spreader thoroughly to remove the product residue. Clean up and dispose of any disposable items.

Enhancing the Effectiveness

Most herbicides work best on actively growing weeds. Consider applying 0.2-0.45% solution of ammonium nitrate days before applying the herbicide. The purpose of the fertilizer is to stimulate growth.

If you must apply the herbicide despite the weather forecast predicting rainfall within 24 hours, consider adding adhesive to the herbicide solution/granules. 

The adhesive of choice must be of biological origin to prevent the spread of toxic chemicals to cultivated crops and soil. 

Safety, Children, And Pets

The usage instructions note the level of toxicity and danger to humans and pets. All ingredients on the weed killer have varying degrees of toxicity. While most herbicides are mildly toxic to humans, they can endanger kids and pets. 

Keep the herbicides away from kids and pets. When applying, ensure the kids and pets remain away from the lawn. Do not let them play on the lawn until the herbicide has dried up, or after the period recommended by the manufacturer.

When To Apply Weed Killer To Lawns

The best time to control lawn weeds is when they’re actively growing, right before flowering, unless you’re trying to prevent weeds from appearing. In which case, apply a pre-emergence weed killer before the seeds begin to germinate.

Post-emergence herbicides work best when applied in spring or early fall. Apply selective post-emergence herbicides on a still day (wind speed < 6.5 mph), without rain forecast in 48 hours, and with the outdoor temperature between 60°F and 77°F. Apply the herbicide at least three hours after watering, irrigation, or rain.

Apply the first dosage two to three weeks before cultivation and the second dosage two to three weeks after to fully destroy unwanted plants. 

When working with pre-emergence herbicides, take note of the type of weed and when they sprout. For example, summer annual weeds like goosegrass and crabgrass germinate in the fall and spring. Others, like henbit and chickweed, germinate in early fall. 

Thus, ensure your pre-emergence herbicide is applied before the target weed can sprout. 

If the weeds are overgrown, at a height of six inches or more, mow them first. Then wait until they’re 2.5-3 inches to apply an herbicide.

Do not use a pre-emergence weed killer on a newly seeded lawn.

How Long Does It Take For Lawn Weed Killer To Work

Herbicides have varying times of action. From my observation, some weed killers like the RoundUp lawn show results within hours, but it can take weeks to realize full effects. It takes somewhere between hours to three weeks to realize visible effects.

Final Thoughts On Best Weed Killer For Lawns

During my testing, I looked at herbicides that were easy to use and effectively killed multiple types of grass and broadleaf weeds in a short span. 

My top pick is the RoundUp Lawn. RoundUp was relatively easy to use, highly efficient, reliable, and affordable. It also exhibited measurable results in hours. 

The runner-up goes to Spectracide Weed Stop for Lawn due to its high efficiency. The herbicide kills over 400 weeds and exhibits visible results in five hours.  

Spectracide is followed by the Southern AG, one of the best value weed killers in the market. You only use one to four pints of the product per acre and kill a variety of weeds indefinitely. 

Best Weed Killer For Lawns FAQ’s

If you still have questions about the best weed killer for lawns then take a look at what others are asking.